On water, on land, and in the air
Mahalia Jackson's life was inextricably linked to travel, but it was far from glamorous. Her odyssey across the United States and around the world was a mixture of triumphs and hardships, marked by the shadows of racial segregation, health challenges, and her unwavering dedication to music.
The railroad as a formative experience
Her first big trip in November 1927, at the tender age of 16, by train from New Orleans to Chicago, was a life-changing experience. She spent two nights and a day in an unheated, racially segregated compartment. This early trauma of the Jim Crow system was deeply engraved in her memory, even though she was later able to afford first-class private accommodations. Despite the discrimination, she was excited when the train rolled into Chicago.
Mahalia Jackson often preferred traveling by train to flying because she was extremely afraid of flying. But even train journeys were not without incident. Once she became so ill that she needed help getting off the train and was disappointed to find that no porter was waiting for her. Another memorable journey saw Mildred Falls, her pianist, end up in the baggage car, where she sat with corpses and coffins. Once, her train nearly derailed after a collision, but Mahalia's car was spared. She maintained one habit throughout her life: she traveled with nearly a hundred dollars in her bra.
On the road on four wheels
Mahalia owned both a purple Cadillac and, later, a white Buick. She often drove herself and was known for driving very fast at times. Friends and relatives, such as Ike Hockenhull (her first husband) and Allen Clark Jr., also helped her with driving. Her experiences in the car were also shaped by social circumstances. In New Orleans, she once had to make a white friend sit in the back seat of her Cadillac and pretend he was her "white boss" to avoid trouble with racial segregation. Such circumstances were common in New Orleans, while a white taxi driver in Chicago would pick up a black woman without protest – unthinkable in her hometown.
There were incidents: her car was once impounded by the finance company because of unpaid installments, a consequence of the negligence of her then-husband, Ike Hockenhull. Mahalia had to pay $800 to get it back. Once, she improvised a story that the car belonged to her "madam" to defuse an encounter with the police. She also recalled driving at 90 miles per hour on a highway in Mississippi, which earned her a $100 fine but at least "saved time."
Traveling in the South was particularly difficult, as there were no rest stops for Black people. On a trip through the Texas Panhandle and New Mexico, she got caught in a snowstorm that eventually forced her to take the train. Mahalia also used her car to transport records and songbooks, which she sold after her concerts. She saw driving as part of her job to make people "in the country" happy.
Sea and air travel: between fear and necessity
IHer first European tour in October 1952 took her to Le Havre, France, aboard the S.S. United States. Although she was seasick and exhausted at the start of the voyage, her mother Fannie Gay's prayers gave her the confidence she needed. She was received so enthusiastically in Paris that the police had to control the crowds. She also traveled by ship on her 1961 tour of the Holy Land, where she again struggled with illness at first but recovered thanks to the ship's doctor's instructions. She found comfort and peace by watching the waves for hours. Her travels took her on to Alexandria, Beirut, and Damascus before she drove to Jerusalem by car.
Mahalia Jackson's fear of flying was legendary. Her agent Lou Mindling often joked that she would have no problems if she flew. She preferred the train and had clauses written into her contracts stating that she would not fly. But sometimes flying was unavoidable, either to get to concerts on time or when her health required it.
In 1952, she had to fly to Europe to arrive in France on time. After a concert in Berlin, where she almost fainted, she had to fly to Copenhagen. A pilot from Oklahoma who knew about her fear flew her everywhere. On one flight, when a fire broke out in the rear compartment and the landing gear jammed, Mahalia remained calm and prayed. After her breakdown in Europe in 1967, she had to fly back to Chicago because she did not want to have surgery in Europe and wanted to see her trusted doctor.
In April 1971, she missed her flight to Japan because she was at the doctor's and tried desperately to hail taxis and cars—without success, as no one recognized her. Finally, the airplane door was held open for her, and she boarded, panting. Remarkably, her attitude toward flying changed on later tours to Japan and India. She enjoyed the flights and the hospitality of the airlines, even though she still prayed secretly. She noticed the "porcelain doll" stewardesses and the constant offer of food. In October 1971, due to her poor health, she was brought home by military air evacuation, with stops and hospital stays in Frankfurt, Washington, D.C., and the Great Lakes Naval Hospital, before being taken by ambulance to Billings Hospital in Chicago.
© From Original Negativee/Alamy
Mahalia Jackson on the Matsonia (San Francisco, California) on February 14, 1963, en route to Honolulu.
Travel companions and personal aspects
Mahalia rarely traveled alone. Her entourage always included pianists such as Mildred Falls and Charles Clency, her nephew and assistant Allen Clark Jr., secretaries, and tour managers such as Harry Lenetska and Lou Mindling.
Mahalia Jackson was practically minded when it came to money. She often insisted on being paid in cash in advance and once received $10,000 in cash after a concert in Tokyo. She was also known for generously distributing money to her companions and friends.
Her health was often a major problem when traveling. She suffered from chest pains, diarrhea, and heart problems, which led to hospital stays and interrupted trips. Nevertheless, she often continued to sing and gave her all, even though her ability to express herself physically was impaired by her illness.
Despite all the hardships, Mahalia loved social interaction. She took time to talk to fans and sign autographs, even when she was tired. When traveling, she often found peace and the opportunity to collect her thoughts, which offered her a welcome break from her turbulent life.
Mahalia Jackson's travels were more than just transportation; they were a reflection of her life, her struggles, and her unwavering dedication to her music.
©Thilo Plaesser