Mahalia's pilgrimage
Mahalia Jackson had a deep desire throughout her life: to visit the Holy Land, especially Jerusalem. Seeing the places she had read about in her beloved Bible was a recurring theme in her conversations and reflected her deep spirituality. After a few detours, this longing was finally fulfilled on one of the most significant journeys of her life.
An unfulfilled dream: the travel plans of 1952
Back in October 1952, during her European tour, Mahalia Jackson planned to end her tour in the Holy Land. Her agent Harry Lenetska had already made firm plans for the visit. But fate had other ideas. During the sea voyage, she fell seriously ill with sarcoidosis and uterine fibroids. The tour had to be cut short by two weeks, and she returned to the US for emergency surgery. She refused to have the operation in Europe and instead sought treatment in Chicago with her trusted doctor. It was a great disappointment for her not to be able to see the Holy Land at Christmas. Her dream of singing there and experiencing the holy sites would have to wait.
The fulfillment of a dream: the journey in 1961
Eight years later, in 1961, Mahalia Jackson was presented with the opportunity she had been waiting for. Another trip to Europe took her to Rome and Naples before she set off for the Middle East to finally fulfill her longing to visit the Holy Land. She saw this trip as the completion of her earlier, interrupted journey.
The pilgrimage began in Alexandria, Egypt. Mahalia was fascinated by the lively markets, the crowds, and the millennia-old history she encountered in the form of a five-thousand-year-old mummy. She enjoyed the impressions to the fullest. From Egypt, the journey continued to Beirut, Lebanon. The docks there were loud and hot, and customs presented a challenge. However, the American Embassy in Beirut offered a welcome oasis of calm and assistance.
The journey then continued to Damascus, Syria, where Mahalia's pilgrimage actually began. She visited impressive ruins from the Roman Empire and a church where Saint Paul once preached. The city filled her with awe for the majestic history of the Old Testament. She was accompanied by her driver, a tall Arab man with a red felt hat, whom Mahalia affectionately called "Fez." The road from Damascus to Jerusalem was described as "wild, narrow, and dusty." Mahalia was amused by her scolding of Fez for driving so fast, and he joked in return that he wanted to marry her—a lovely anecdote in such a meaningful journey. The drive took them through the desert, among other places, and Mahalia was overwhelmed by the biblical history that surrounded her. She was particularly moved by approaching the places where God called Saul and where Jesus lived. They stopped often to look at the many historical and biblical sites and imagine what had happened there. Since the border between Syria and Israel was in a state of war at the time, they had to travel via Ammon, passing the ruins of Jerash.
At the Jordan River, which Mahalia called "Jerdan," she waded into the water and was deeply moved. The river, which she had previously known only as a symbol, now became a tangible reality. Crossing the border into Israel at the Mandelbaum Gate was a frightening experience: in the midst of a crowd, they had to carry their luggage by hand. An Israeli official asked her at customs where she was from, to which she replied indignantly, "You saw us!"
Arrival - Jerusalem
Mahalia was deeply moved in Jerusalem itself. She visited the Garden of Gethsemane at the foot of the Mount of Olives, where she fell to her knees and prayed. She climbed the mountain to the shrine commemorating Jesus' ascension and was able to look out over the Kidron Valley, where Solomon was anointed king, and see the City of David. Mahalia described her visit to Jerusalem as "coming home" and "the most important thing in her life." She realized that the Wailing Wall was actually made of stones from Solomon's Temple and that the Dome of the Rock stood on Mount Moriah, the same site as Solomon's Temple. Her wish was to sing on Calvary, probably songs like "The Holy City" or "Lift Every Voice and Sing." Although her hotel was initially overbooked, Mahalia found happiness in a guesthouse run by an Arab family. With her Native American moccasins and walking stick, she set off for Calvary.
Her journey continued to Tel Aviv, Israel, where she gave a concert.
A theological debate with some Israelis, during which she tried to explain Jesus to them, and the reaction of a Holocaust survivor who welcomed her remarks illustrate the complexity of interfaith encounters. Despite her success, she was glad to end the trip soon and return to the US.
Aftereffect
Even after this unforgettable trip in 1961, Mahalia's desire to continue her evangelical work and possibly build a "temple" in Chicago remained her true passion. Unfortunately, the project was never realized.
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